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This is just a reference to a typical direct drive motor, some are 3 speed, some are two speed and some are one speed. The colours are not written in stone and may vary, but this is a good reference on how to ohm the motor. Your washer should have a wire diagram in the consol that you can use as well.
Burnt wire ( especially at the motor plug ) can stop the washer from running. The start capacitor can prevent the motor from running, the start capacitor can be beside the motor, or up in the consol area. How to ohm meter test a capacitor.
(click the picture for a bigger view)
A) Check for continuity on the start windings between black and *yellow* wires. A resistance of 4 - 7 ohms is normal.
B) Check for continuity on the high speed windings between blue and white wires. A resistance of 3/4 - 2 ohms is normal.
C) Check for continuity on low speed windings between white and white/violet wires. A resistance of 1&1/2 - 3 ohms is normal.
D) Check for continuity on the extra low speed windings between white and white/orange wires. A resistance of 1&1/2 - 3 ohms is normal.
E) Check for continuity the motor safety protector between white and white/black wires. You should see full continuity with 0 ohms.
F) If all these check points are OK...then you can test the motor centrifugal switch by first removing the pump and disconnecting the motor wire harness from the switch, and the switch from the motor. Remove the internal motor wires ( write down which color and what terminal they came from ) and check the switch contacts as said here....
By pushing up on the switch actuator, you should have continuity between the red and black terminals, as well as the orange and blue terminals.
By releasing the actuator, you should have continuity between the orange and the white/violet terminals. No continuity should be seen between the red and black terminals, or the orange and blue terminals.
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