Due to high costs for keeping this site running, please consider making a donation.
Shop Amazon Lawn & Garden - Free Assembly of Premium Grills
Appliance repair help and repair parts...
Repair Help for Appliances, Lawn Mowers, HVAC and more
RepairClinic.com is the trusted online store with 1,000,000+ replacement parts and maintenance products for 160 appliance, outdoor power equipment and heating and cooling equipment brands
Shop Now - Introducing Amazon Echo
I have a 5-year old Kenmore front loading washer Model 417.29052991. The noise coming from this machine as it spins has become unbearably loud. It's a droning humming noise that can be heard down the block even with the laundry room window closed. I can also hear the noise when I spin the drum by hand, though not as loud. The drum doesn't seem to spin as smoothly as it should.
My experience with cars leads me to think that a bearing is bad - it's the same type of noise a bad wheel bearing would make.
My Kenmore (Kelvinator/Frigidaire) 417.29042992 frontload washer is 3 years old. Starting about 3-4 months ago, it developed a VERY noisy spin, especially on the final spin. (So loud, it's almost frightening!)
I am getting a mud or rust like marks on my clothes.
If the tub seal lets go water will weep into the tub bearing. This will rust the basket shaft and normally wreck the tub bearing. Once the bearings starts to get worn enough it usually gets very noisy. The tub bearing is pressed onto the outer back half of the tub shell assembly. Normally need to replace the inner basket/shaft assembly and the outer shell with the tub bearing.
Sometimes the inner basket support will crack, this can give an clicking or banging noise as well.
A sure indication was the brown junk/gookus leaking out if the rear bearing area and the belt has spewed it around in the drum that the rear bearing and seal was bad...
The whole outer shell and basket come out to do this repair....what bad bearing and rusted shaft looked like...
I had to remove the back panel. Undo the pump hose & water level hose, remove the 2 shocks, remove the motor, undo the front boot from the outer panel and remove the 2 springs to lift the whole assembly out from the back to work on it.
Caution If let go too long the inner basket can wobble around and damage the front 1/2 of the outer shell.
The damage done to the front 1/2 of the outer shell...
The outer shell was almost melted in spots and had two small pins holes worn right through.
One root cause of washer stalling in cycle (timer not advancing) on horizontal axis washers is electrical noise generated primarily by the timer contacts opening and closing which can interfere with proper operation of the speed control board. At times, depending on ambient environmental conditions, this electrical noise can cause the motor controller board to receive corrupt signals and remain on 'stand by condition' resulting in the cycle not advancing. By manually advancing the timer to the next step in the cycle or by turning the washer's power off and on, the electrical noise is discharged and the washer will perform until electrical noise may happen to interfere once again. To resolve this issue, three jumpers have been added to the current motor controller board to reduce electrical noise levels around the microprocessor. Testing has proven this change to the board significantly reduces occurrence of control lock-up. The newist motor controller board assembly is Part Number 134149220.
Repair manual is great for this repair and a must if you want to do future service as well.
Outer tub assembly with bearing and seal
Inner tub with spider and shaft
Drain pump and motor assembly
Drive belt, 6 ribs
More washing machine parts...