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This washer is a belt driven washer. Older versions of these washers had the pump built on top of the motor, e.g. one.....e.g. two..... newest style of this washer has a separate pump and motor for the draining of the water. One style has a stationary transmission and newer one has a transmission that turns during the spinning of the washer. If one part of your washer quits, split your problem in 1/2....try to turn the belt by hand, either in agitation or spin to find out if it is capable to mechanically work, if yes, possible electrical problem (timer, switches, motor, etc). If washer still won't spin or agitate when you turn the belt by hand, possible mechanical problem (belt, transmission, pulleys, bearings, etc).
Wash basket breakdown of older style White Westinghouse, Kelvinator, Frigidaire washer....here...
This is the newest washer front, remove these screws and pull down on the front panel to remove it. This is a break down of what you will see, the most common parts of the drive can be accessed from the front.
One of the largest problems with this washer has been the lid switch, you must check it out with a ohm meter, if the switch quits you will lose power to the motor. Things can get caught between the tanks as well, this machine is bad for the center bearing tightening up and the spin will quit. This is a new close up picture of a typical lid switch. You can temporarily join the wires together to test the motor and washer operations.
Using the correct belt on this style of washer is important, there are several different belts depending on which model and year washer you have. The belt is a cloth belt which slips in the spin mode and acts like a clutch. Here is some possible reasons for why the belt might burn off....
Unfortunately the transmission causes this almost all the time :-( You will probably need a new transmission.
Check the pump assembly ( this is a common pump ) first for a leaking problem, ( changing a common Frigidaire pump tips ) check fill valve, hoses, and center seal under the outer tank in the middle where the transmission goes inside the washer. The button catcher ( on older style washer ) on the side of the outer tank is also bad for leaking. See #'s 16, 17, 18 for the button catcher, grommet and clamp. Replace them all at the same time, the grommet is glued as well as clipped into the outer tank. With the use of plastic drain hoses on many machines today, this has become a common leak trouble maker. The drain hose can rub the wall or a pipe and this will rub a hole in the drain hose.
The pump is pressed onto the motor shaft. The motor shaft often starts to rust and the shaft swells out and holds onto the pump...tightly!! Often need to...remove power, remove the pump clips, remove the hoses from the pump assy. if the pump assy will not lift off of the motor shaft, you may need to remove the motor & pump together and break off the pump assy. A hammer and flat screwdriver can usually crack the old pump so it can be replaced. Sand/clean the motor shaft before installing the new pump.
Often something works it's way into the pump and makes a clicking or scraping noise. Another bad spot on this washer is the snubber ring that sits between the base and the drive unit.
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