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Appliance repair help and repair parts...
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Problems with the pilot light system.....The flame has gone out, re-light the pilot. The pilot flame will not light - possible oven control is not sending gas for the pilot light. The pilot light works but no main burner ignition - possible pilot assembly is dirty and the pilot flame is too small, safety valve and thermocouple is faulty, the bulb from the safety valve is out of position and the pilot flame is not touching the thermocouple bulb. Some ranges use a standing pilot light ( small flame is on all the time ) while others use an spark ignition to light the pilot light flame and the pilot light flame heats up the thermocouple bulb to allow the main gas to flow through the oven burner.
The flame needs to heat the bulb up enough to tell it to open the gas valve. Several things can go wrong here that keep this from happening:
But when you turn on the oven or the thermostat calls for heat, the pilot flame gets bigger and jumps down so it can heat up the thermocouple bulb. This extra gas to increase the pilot flame size comes from the thermostat.
One final point on the spark-assisted pilot ignition systems. The spark comes from the spark module--the same module that sends spark to your surface burners to light them up. If you're not getting a spark when you turn the oven on, then there are several possibilities:
You may even see the orange "glow plug" (called a hot surface igniter) glowing orange and so assume that it's OK. Not necessarily!! You have to measure the current/amp drawn by the igniter and compare it to this repair sheet before you can say it's OK or not. The gas valve has a bi-metal that open when a certain amount of current flows through it to heat it up. The igniter is wired in series with the gas valve. As the igniter gets older or weaker, it's resistance increases to the point where not enough current is flowing to the gas valve bimetal to open it up. As a result, the gas valve never opens up. BTW, a common symptom of the early stages of this problem is erratic temperature control in the oven due to delayed firing of the bake burner while cooking.
Check igniter with a ohm meter, you should have continuity through the glow bar, the glow bar can also crack = new igniter time. The glow bar comes on but the main burner will not light - you should have an amp probe to check properly, but often this is a hot surface igniter problem. The hot surface igniter often looses it's ability to get hot enough to open the gas safety valve. The safety valve can fail, but most times it is just a bad hot surface igniter. The hot surface igniter can also quit part way through cooking , in other words the oven may cycle a couple of times and then it just sits there with the red glow from the igniter. See this service sheet for the proper way and amp readings for the hot surface igniter system. Hot surface igniters do weaken and will eventually generate less heat than they normally could. When this happens they can still allow marginally correct current to flow to the oven gas valve for it to open but not get quite hot enough to ignite the gas burner immediately. When this happens, gas released into the oven can sometimes build up to the point where when finally ignited, the amount of gas lit can cause a small explosion inside the oven or cause an odor of gas with out the oven working. Yes, your glow bar igniter can glow orange-red and still be bad!! How a common gas valve works - click here.
Whirlpool has introduced a new variation on the spark ignition system. In this system there is no 'pilot', instead an additional electronic control monitors the performance of the oven burner how this system works.
There are a few things to check for. Make sure the electrode ( the small metal piece that the spark comes off from ) is clean and the holes in the burner are clean, use a pin or paper clip to clean out the burner holes and NOT a tooth pick as these can break off and make things worse. Example of a burner. The next thing to check for are the ignition switches under the surface control knobs, the switches can twist and break and keep the spark module on and the spark keeps "clicking" even when the burner is light. If every thing looks good, you may have a bad spark module, replace it. Sometimes cleaning can get moisture into the surface switches, try drying them with an hair dryer to see of this will help. Repair and checking tips for surface burners.
I have a Kenmore Elite Gas range/oven. This morning I noticed the range top ignition was clicking all by itself every 15-30 seconds. I checked all of the knobs to assure they were off and they were. All burners including the oven light as normal but the ignition will not stop clicking.
While previously cleaning the range control knobs, one of those switches got wet and was completing the circuit to the spark module causing it to fire off sparks. A little help from my wife's hair/blow dryer and were all fixed!
You will have to check the same items as mentioned above.
AGA approved, flexible gas line 48-inches in length. Heavy duty stainless steel construction. Includes common adapters and complete installation instructions.
Stainless Steel Connector for Gas Range - Has everything you need to connect your range to your gas shutoff valve, including 4 feet of 5/8-inch outside diameter coated stainless steel gas connector with two fittings, leak detector solution and pipe sealant compound. Procoat polymer coating resists corrosion caused by bleach, ammonia and acids found in many home care products.
Gas grate cleaner