Direct Drive Washer Not Spinning

Quick tips....Slow or no spin....

  1. Lid open.
  2. Lid switch defective. ( Very Common problem )
  3. Lid switch disconnect plug open/burnt.
  4. Clothes between basket and outer tank.
  5. Lint filter caught between the wash basket and outer holding tank.
  6. Wiring harness.
  7. Bad motor capacitor ( How to check )
  8. Weak clutch.
  9. Timer switches. ( possible not allowing the pause required for the transmission to set up to spin )
  10. Motor.
  11. Cam driver on basket drive broken or basket drive weak.
  12. Spin tube.
  13. Notches in drive block worn out and not engaging basket drive shaft.
  14. Broken motor coupling. See Replacing Motor Coupler Page
  15. Read a bit on how the washer works as well.

If your washer will not spin...first thing is to consider if washer is RUNNING and not spinning or NOT RUNNING and not spinning. If the washer is NOT running ( or working intermittently ) check lid switch for continuity. Broken lid switch arm and the lid switch probe should be checked as well. Something NEW linked here to check for when looking at that lid switch. Always a good idea to check for clothing between the tanks as well. Make sure nothing has gone through one of the inner basket holes and is now scrapping or jamming the tub from moving, such items may be a nail, pin, bra under wire.

Read a bit on how the washer works as well.

If washer IS running, remove power and remove cabinet. Use a piece of insulated wire to by-pass the lid switch wires, turn the timer to spin and pull out the knob, push the knob back in and pull it out again. Watch for the clutch drum to turn ( brown section in picture A ). If it is turning but the inner wash tub is not, then more often than not you have a worn clutch lining or a weak spin spring, also the brake may have seized up. If the clutch drum is not turning and washer is not spinning, often the failure is in the transmission gear box. ( see picture B ).

spin gear

You may have to get the gear-case out. Then take a look at that tan colored part in the middle of this picture.

basket drive

If the 2 drive "fingers" are broken off, the clutch can't dis-engage the brake and this means no spin.

Drive block may be worn out. This sometimes is accompanied by some strange noises as well, but a worn drive block will also stop the spin from working. You will need to remove the agitator to see the drive block.

A worn out drive block looks like this. Notice the top of the drive block is ground out. A picture here showing the difference between a worn out one and a brand new one. drive block. The new one installed.

This is a link on help to access the clutch - transmission.

*Some* washers have a lint filter ( #12 ) attached to the underneath part of the inner wash basket. If this breaks and starts to fall off, the filter can jam the wash basket from spinning.

A weak clutch is becoming more and more common lately :(

direct drive assembly

The clutch may give intermittent spinning or a weak/slow spin.

To service the clutch or brake, you must remove the transmission. When you have removed the transmission, look on top of it for the clutch drum. The clutch shoes can be removed simply by squeezing the spring with a pair of pliers. Check for a broken clutch spring or a worn clutch lining. The brake and spin tube assembly is still attached to the tub pedestal.


Washer Repair and Maintenance Parts

Related Links

  1. Washer Valves
  2. Washer Tub Ring or Cover, Counterweight
  3. Washer Agitator Parts
  4. Motor-Drive
  5. Direct Drive Washer Motor
  6. Motor Drive