Electric Range Repair Topics

Always remember Electricity is dangerous and should be treated with respect!

Please pick a topic by Make and or problem...hope you find this helpful :-)

  1. After self cleaning the range the door won't open
  2. Ceran glass cooktop and how to keep it clean
  3. Changing a basic bake element
  4. Checking a range element
  5. Checking a surface switch
  6. Checking the terminal block of a range element
  7. Checking an common oven temp sensor
  8. Checking an oven temp sensor: What does an oven temp sensor look like??
  9. F9 error code on some newer Whirlpool ranges.
  10. GE Cook-Top Burner Keeps Going Out
  11. How to adjust a standard controlled oven temperature
  12. How to adjust the oven temp on some common electronic controlled ovens
  13. Help for storing an appliance
  14. How to test many brands of Ranges that are flashing a F1 fault code
  15. Important disclaimer
  16. Kenmore Electric Range 790.94142310 Clock Problem
  17. My electric oven will not heat
  18. My Range is flashing an " F1 F2 F3 F4 F5 F7 F9 " something, what does this mean??
  19. My surface element stays red all the time, it seems to have no low heat
  20. My whole range is totally dead...help!
  21. My bake element just caught fire...help!!
  22. Newest style coil surface elements
  23. Oven door and door hinge help
  24. Oven temperature seems to be incorrect
  25. Oven temp sensor - how to change helps
  26. Some "how to set the self clean" on my range
  27. Stainless Steel Cleaning
  28. Sample wire diagram from an older Moffat ( Canadian ) range
  29. Whirlpool Wall Oven Malfunctioning in Self Cleaning Mode
  30. Wiring help for the 4 prone receptacle
  31. Wiring a replacement surface element switch WB21X5243

My whole range is dead ( or just the lights are working ):

You must check the main power wires where they enter the range at the T-block, sometimes they can burn off. Also check house fuses ( or breaker ) that supplies power to the range. Checking with a volt meter, you should get 240 volts between the black and red main power wires. The range receptacle and power cord can also burn and fail.

How to change a standard controlled oven temp:

Sometimes the temp ( 300-350-etc ) knob will have screws on the back of the knob, you can loosen these screws and adjust the knob to match the oven temp. Picture. Some oven controls have a hollow shaft, you will need a tiny straight screw drive to adjust the oven temp by changing the setting screw at the bottom of the hollow shaft.

My electric oven will not heat:

Things to check- The screw in fuses, they are usually the 30 amp fuses for the oven. Next is the clock assembly, often these clocks will have the words "push for manual" or "turn for manual", this will put the clock back into the normal operating mode rather than the automatic mode. Next, you may have to remove the power and check for any burnt wires. If all checks ok, you will have to test the selector switch and oven control.

Oven temp problems:

Temperature is too low-- possible trouble makers, blown oven fuse, bake element is out, burnt wire, oven probe clips, oven temp control, oven temp sensor.

Temperature is too high-- in the oven possible trouble makers, oven temp control, oven relay ( if used ), oven probe clips, oven temp sensor, shorted wire.

These oven probe clips often rust off and the oven temp probe hangs down, or touches the oven wall giving false temperature readings to the oven control.

oven clip

Checking a surface switch:

Many infinite surface switches physically look different, but they operate almost all the same way.

Test with an ohm meter. . . .Unplug the range. Turn the switch to a high on position, you should be able to hear it "click" into the high position. Remove the wires from the infinite switch. Be certain you know how to replace the wires. Check across from L1 to H1, L2 to H2, and P to H1. If there is not continuity across all these points, the switch is defective. Sample internal picture here.

Test with an voltmeter. . . . . Unplug the range. Remove access covers to get to the switch. Plug the range back in. With voltmeter set to read on the 240V scale, read across L1 & L2. ( no power there, check fuses or wiring ) There should be 240 volts present here. Turn the switch on to a high setting. Read voltage across H1 & H2. There should be 240V present here. If you don't read 240V here, replace the switch. Sample internal picture here.

Element stays on high only:

This is usually a contact inside the switch that has stuck together. Because this contact will not open, the element stays on high heat all the time = new switch time.

Checking a range element :

With the element removed from the range, check across the terminals of the element for continuity. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms, with an ohm meter. To see if the element is grounded, read between each side of the element terminals to the sheath of the element. If you read continuity, the element is grounded and should be replaced.

Changing a basic bake element:

disconnect power first!

  1. Remove oven racks, remove the mounting screws from the element mounting plate, found against the back wall of the range oven liner.
  2. Pull defective element away from the back of the oven wall as far as the wire will allow ( the odd time, the wires may be too short and you may have to disconnect the wires from the element at the back of the range ).
  3. Remove wire lead screws from the element.
  4. Replace the element and reconnect the leads ( if only two wires going to the element, it does not matter which goes on left or right wire terminal ).
  5. Tuck surplus wire behind insulation.
  6. Line up holes and reinstall new element using existing screws.

Checking the terminal block of a range element:

If you have checked the infinite switch and it is good, and the wires coming to the terminal block are good, and the surface element burner is good, then replace the terminal block. You can also read voltage in the terminal block with the switch turned on high. If the burner is good and you read 240V in the block, and the burner is not heating, replace the terminal block. Always check the ends of the surface elements when the receptacle terminal black is gone. Often the connection of the element and terminal block gets loose and burns the terminal block and the ends of the element.

Range/Stove/Oven Parts

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