How
to change the tub seals and center bearing....
Some extra how to
take apart information if you need it.
Maytag Dependable Care washer -
leaking water in the middle where the transmission goes inside the tub: How
to change the tub seals and center bearing.
Okay, grab a beverage and sit back and bear with me as we
try to re-create the steps I use in this job.....
Please read this a couple of times, we are going from memory and this is somewhat
mechanical for me...
When we are doing well it will take me 1/2 hour, if run into problems it can take me
almost 1 1/2 hours.
Observations you should make along this road....
i. note position of tub clamp screws.
ii. note where top cover is in relation to clamp and inside spacing.
iii. note how old seal is in, there are two different sides.
iv. have a clean rag to wipe clean the area where the seal meets the inside of the outer
tub.
NOW...
1. Unplug washer and Remove two
Philips head screws holding front panel in ( newer models have clips on the
bottom and no screws )
2. Remove front panel, lift panel from sides, has two "tabs" on top
3. Remove two 3/8ths hex head screws holding top down
4. Lift up top, it's somewhat hinged, careful lid doesn't smash against wall or pipes
5. Disconnect water tube on left side to top cover
6. loosen the two screws on the steel band... straight or 5/16th ( newer washers
have a plastic tank cover, pry out the tabs and lift up to remove the plastic
tank cover )
7. gently but forcefully remove the top cover
8. careful not to bend the band or cut the gasket
9. *remove the agitator by grasping firmly and pulling up towards your chin,
carefully!
*( many have 1/4 hex head screw on
agitator, down the side near the base, older
ones have a
rubber ring on transmission shaft )
10.using a hammer and your spanner wrench remove or cut off the spanner nut, it is a left
hand thread
so it must come off clockwise, careful not to chip the tub
11. remove the inner tub,, it's heavy with the concrete counter balance
12. take the Allen wrench screw (or torx) out of the mount stem ( see one of the
4 dimples for the set screw )
13. using your hammer and spanner wrench take the mount stem off, mount stem is a left
hand thread
so it must come off clockwise
14. now grasp the seal and remove, careful you can slip
( Also if just replacing just the
"Seal and stem kit" skip to 31. and continue ) I don't
recommend replacing the seals only with out the tub bearing!
15. put a 1/2" socket on the nut on the front and 1/2" box wrench or
adjustable wrench on the inside
bolt, and loosen
using the socket on the outside, but not remove entirely the front nut
16. then using the same two tools remove the left and right bolts and nuts and lock nuts
and plate,
noticing the fiber washer
17. then remove the front one
18. remove tub to pump top hose clamp and pull off up 1/2 of that hose, now work the outer tub loose and lift up but not out entirely
19. remove the pressure hose on your rear right side
20. take out the tub
21. stomp (using your foot) out the tub bearing housing from inside the outer tub
22. remove the "metal sleeve collar" on the transmission shaft
22A. you're half started
23. turn the outer drum over
24. take the new tub bearing and "stomp" it into the outer tank...flush, take your time and
double/triple check yourself on these steps, (takes less time to recheck and verify than
to tear down and start over)
25. put the new collar over the transmission
26. put the outer tub back on and reattach the pressure hose and pump hose
27. line up the front hole and put the front (short) bolt in, making sure you have the
fiber washer on the outside of the tub
28. put the rectangular flat washer on, then the lock washer and the nut by hand...
thread it on a couple of turns but leave loose
29. put the right and left bolts and stuff on, tighten well
30. tighten up the front one
31. check for rust and clean as required. Put the seal on next, careful not to tear the
seal, but it needs to be all the way down. One side has a special edge of carbon or
something like that and that needs to be UP towards you. Sometimes taking a little
bit of liquid laundry detergent and lining the inside bottom lip of the seal
with it can help with the installation of the seal onto the tank.
32. take the torx screw out of the new mount stem, and screw down the stem mount, tighten with spanner
wrench ( don't over tighten! ), install the torx screw
33. put the inner tub on
34. check the spacing around the top of the inner tub (making sure that the tub is not
listing one way or another)
35. put the metal cover on and spanner nut
36. put the top cover on and push it all the way down
37. check and clean the gasket and put it back on. Check for rust and clean as
required.
38. put the clamp back on over the gasket
39. tighten to a moderately firm but not tight setting
40. carefully with a long straight screwdriver pry up the top part, bit by bit
run your fingers around the clamp to make sure the gasket didn't pop up
41. when you think you have a good position, take your index finger and on the inside put
it between
the top cover and top of the inner basket and make sure you have this space all round so
that
the inner basket doesn't rub against the top cover
42. tighten the clamp
43. reinstall the hose from the injector to the top cover
44. plug unit back in and turn to spin
45. let it spin for a couple of minutes
46. turn timer to fill and put water in
47. water test before securing top and reinstalling front panel
Tools needed include "spanner wrench",
hammer,
1/4"nut
driver, socket set with
5/16", 3/8"
& 1/2" socket, 1/2" box head wrench or adjustable
wrench, "heavy foot", hose clamp
pliers or good set of pliers,
Allen
wrench
- torx
screwdriver or bit sit, screwdrivers, Phillips and
straight .