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Dryer repair help and repair parts...
Dryer References - Dryer Maintenance Tips - Frequently Asked Questions
Washer Tub Seal Replacement
How to change the tub seals and center bearing....
Some extra how to take apart information if you need it.
Maytag Dependable Care washer - leaking water in the middle where the transmission goes inside the tub: How to change the tub seals and center bearing.
Under water seal kit
Tub bearing kit
Okay, grab a beverage and sit back and bear with me as we try to re-create the steps I use in this job.....
Please read this a couple of times, we are going from memory and this is somewhat mechanical for me...
When we are doing well it will take me 1/2 hour, if run into problems it can take me almost 1 1/2 hours.
Observations you should make along this road....
i. note position of tub clamp screws.
ii. note where top cover is in relation to clamp and inside spacing.
iii. note how old seal is in, there are two different sides.
iv. have a clean rag to wipe clean the area where the seal meets the inside of the outer tub.
- Unplug washer and Remove two Philips head screws holding front panel in ( newer models have clips on the bottom and no screws )
- Remove front panel, lift panel from sides, has two "tabs" on top
- Remove two 3/8ths hex head screws holding top down
- Lift up top, it's somewhat hinged, careful lid doesn't smash against wall or pipes
- Disconnect water tube on left side to top cover
- loosen the two screws on the steel band... straight or 5/16th ( newer washers have a plastic tank cover, pry out the tabs and lift up to remove the plastic tank cover )
- gently but forcefully remove the top cover
- careful not to bend the band or cut the gasket
- *remove the agitator by grasping firmly and pulling up towards your chin, carefully!
*( many have 1/4 hex head screw on agitator, down the side near the base, older ones have a rubber ring on transmission shaft )
- using a hammer and your spanner wrench remove or cut off the spanner nut, it is a left hand thread so it must come off clockwise, careful not to chip the tub
- remove the inner tub,, it's heavy with the concrete counter balance
- take the Allen wrench screw (or torx) out of the mount stem ( see one of the 4 dimples for the set screw )
- using your hammer and spanner wrench take the mount stem off, mount stem is a left hand thread so it must come off clockwise
- now grasp the seal and remove, careful you can slip ( many have 1/4 hex head screw on agitator, down the side near the base, older ones have a rubber ring on transmission shaft )
- put a 1/2" socket on the nut on the front and 1/2" box wrench or adjustable wrench on the inside bolt, and loosen using the socket on the outside, but not remove entirely the front nut
- then using the same two tools remove the left and right bolts and nuts and lock nuts and plate, noticing the fiber washer
- then remove the front one
- remove tub to pump top hose clamp and pull off up 1/2 of that hose, now work the outer tub loose and lift up but not out entirely
- remove the pressure hose on your rear right side
- take out the tub
- stomp (using your foot) out the tub bearing housing from inside the outer tub
- remove the "metal sleeve collar" on the transmission shaft
- you're half started
- turn the outer drum over
- take the new tub bearing and "stomp" it into the outer tank...flush, take your time and double/triple check yourself on these steps, (takes less time to recheck and verify than to tear down and start over)
- put the new collar over the transmission
- put the outer tub back on and reattach the pressure hose and pump hose
- line up the front hole and put the front (short) bolt in, making sure you have the fiber washer on the outside of the tub
- put the rectangular flat washer on, then the lock washer and the nut by hand...thread it on a couple of turns but leave loose
- put the right and left bolts and stuff on, tighten well
- tighten up the front one
- check for rust and clean as required. Put the seal on next, careful not to tear the seal, but it needs to be all the way down. One side has a special edge of carbon or something like that and that needs to be UP towards you. Sometimes taking a little bit of liquid laundry detergent and lining the inside bottom lip of the seal with it can help with the installation of the seal onto the tank.
- take the torx screw out of the new mount stem, and screw down the stem mount, tighten with spanner wrench ( don't over tighten! ), install the torx screw
- put the inner tub on
- check the spacing around the top of the inner tub (making sure that the tub is not listing one way or another)
- put the metal cover on and spanner nut
- put the top cover on and push it all the way down
- check and clean the gasket and put it back on. Check for rust and clean as required.
- put the clamp back on over the gasket
- tighten to a moderately firm but not tight setting
- carefully with a long straight screwdriver pry up the top part, bit by bit run your fingers around the clamp to make sure the gasket didn't pop up
- when you think you have a good position, take your index finger and on the inside put it between the top cover and top of the inner basket and make sure you have this space all round so that the inner basket doesn't rub against the top cover
- tighten the clamp
- reinstall the hose from the injector to the top cover
- plug unit back in and turn to spin
- let it spin for a couple of minutes
- turn timer to fill and put water in
- water test before securing top and reinstalling front panel
Tools needed include:
- spanner wrench
- 1/4"nut driver
- socket set with 5/16", 3/8" & 1/2" socket
- 1/2" box head wrench or adjustable wrench
- "heavy foot", hose clamp pliers or good set of pliers
- Allen wrench
- torx screwdriver or bit sit
- screwdrivers, Phillips and straight
Maytag Dependable care style washer repair manual
Service manual - 08, 10, 12 washers Service manual, washer
More washing machine parts...