Frigidaire, GE and many Kenmore front load washer pictures and helps....

1. Changing the front boot

2. Cycle Not Advancing or Timer Stalling Symptoms Update

3. Motor won't run helps

4. New fault codes for the electronic controlled Frigidaire built front load washers

5. Noise problems or rust on the clothes

6. Need help naming that part?  Washers - various models  Interactive

7. Operation and installation tips

8. Won't drain water helps

9. Odor problems with your tumble style washing machine  

10. How to remove and replace the drum gasket on the Frigidaire - Kenmore ( 417.###### ) Front Load Washer with notes on tub bearing replacement and inner drum replacement

11. Washing one item in a front load washer

12. Some door switch helps

13. 

Comment -  I have a 5-year old Kenmore front loading washer Model 417.29052991. The noise coming from this machine as it spins has become unbearably loud. It's a droning humming noise that can be heard down the block even with the laundry room window closed. I can also hear the noise when I spin the drum by hand, though not as loud. The drum doesn't seem to spin as smoothly as it should.

My experience with cars leads me to think that a bearing is bad - it's the same type of noise a bad wheel bearing would make.

Comment - My Kenmore (Kelvinator/Frigidaire) 417.29042992 frontload washer is 3 years old. Starting about 3-4 months ago, it developed a VERY noisy spin, especially on the final spin. (So loud, it's almost frightening!)

Comment - I am getting a mud or rust like marks on my clothes.

Parts showcase....

If the tub seal lets go water will weep into the tub bearing. This will rust the basket shaft and normally wreck the tub bearing. Once the bearings starts to get worn enough it usually gets very noisy. The tub bearing is pressed onto the outer back half of the tub shell assembly. Normally need to replace the inner basket/shaft assembly  and the outer shell with the tub bearing. 

Sometimes the inner basket support will crack, this can give an clicking or banging noise as well.

Pictures of this job...

A sure indication was the brown junk/gookus leaking out if the rear bearing area and the belt has spewed it around in the drum that the rear bearing and seal was bad...

Picture1 - Picture2

The whole outer shell and basket come out to do this repair....what bad bearing and rusted shaft looked like...

Picture1 - Picture2 - Picture3

I had to remove the back panel. Undo the pump hose & water level hose, remove the 2 shocks, remove the motor, undo the front boot from the outer panel and remove the 2 springs to lift the whole assembly out from the back to work on it.

Picture1 ( boot pushed inside ) Help page1 - Help page2

Caution  If let go too long the inner basket can wobble around and damage the front 1/2 of the outer shell.

The damage done to the front 1/2 of the outer shell...

Picture1 -  Picture2 - Picture3

The outer shell was almost melted in spots and had two small pins holes worn right through.

Cycle Not Advancing or Timer Stalling Symptoms Update...

One root cause of washer stalling in cycle (timer not advancing) on horizontal axis washers is electrical noise generated primarily by the timer contacts opening and closing which can interfere with proper operation of the speed control board. At times, depending on ambient environmental conditions, this electrical noise can cause the motor controller board to receive corrupt signals and remain on 'stand by condition' resulting in the cycle not advancing. By manually advancing the timer to the next step in the cycle or by turning the washer's power off and on, the electrical noise is discharged and the washer will perform until electrical noise may happen to interfere once again.

To resolve this issue, three jumpers have been added to the current motor controller board to reduce electrical noise levels around the microprocessor. Testing has proven this change to the board significantly reduces occurrence of control lock-up. The newist motor controller board assembly is Part Number 134149220.