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Please pick a topic by Make and or problem...hope you find this helpful :-)
You must check the main power wires where they enter the range at the T-block, sometimes they can burn off. Also check house fuses ( or breaker ) that supplies power to the range. Checking with a volt meter, you should get 240 volts between the black and red main power wires. The range receptacle and power cord can also burn and fail.
Sometimes the temp ( 300-350-etc ) knob will have screws on the back of the knob, you can loosen these screws and adjust the knob to match the oven temp. Picture. Some oven controls have a hollow shaft, you will need a tiny straight screw drive to adjust the oven temp by changing the setting screw at the bottom of the hollow shaft.
Things to check- The screw in fuses, they are usually the 30 amp fuses for the oven. Next is the clock assembly, often these clocks will have the words "push for manual" or "turn for manual", this will put the clock back into the normal operating mode rather than the automatic mode. Next, you may have to remove the power and check for any burnt wires. If all checks ok, you will have to test the selector switch and oven control.
Temperature is too low-- possible trouble makers, blown oven fuse, bake element is out, burnt wire, oven probe clips, oven temp control, oven temp sensor.
Temperature is too high-- in the oven possible trouble makers, oven temp control, oven relay ( if used ), oven probe clips, oven temp sensor, shorted wire.
These oven probe clips often rust off and the oven temp probe hangs down, or touches the oven wall giving false temperature readings to the oven control.
Many infinite surface switches physically look different, but they operate almost all the same way.
Test with an ohm meter. . . .Unplug the range. Turn the switch to a high on position, you should be able to hear it "click" into the high position. Remove the wires from the infinite switch. Be certain you know how to replace the wires. Check across from L1 to H1, L2 to H2, and P to H1. If there is not continuity across all these points, the switch is defective. Sample internal picture here.
Test with an voltmeter. . . . . Unplug the range. Remove access covers to get to the switch. Plug the range back in. With voltmeter set to read on the 240V scale, read across L1 & L2. ( no power there, check fuses or wiring ) There should be 240 volts present here. Turn the switch on to a high setting. Read voltage across H1 & H2. There should be 240V present here. If you don't read 240V here, replace the switch. Sample internal picture here.
This is usually a contact inside the switch that has stuck together. Because this contact will not open, the element stays on high heat all the time = new switch time.
With the element removed from the range, check across the terminals of the element for continuity. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms, with an ohm meter. To see if the element is grounded, read between each side of the element terminals to the sheath of the element. If you read continuity, the element is grounded and should be replaced.
disconnect power first!
If you have checked the infinite switch and it is good, and the wires coming to the terminal block are good, and the surface element burner is good, then replace the terminal block. You can also read voltage in the terminal block with the switch turned on high. If the burner is good and you read 240V in the block, and the burner is not heating, replace the terminal block. Always check the ends of the surface elements when the receptacle terminal black is gone. Often the connection of the element and terminal block gets loose and burns the terminal block and the ends of the element.
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